The following scans are from a super book I picked up called "Household
discoveries and Mrs. Curtis's Cook Book", copyright 1908 and 1913. My copy belonged to a Mrs. S.J. Wyatt,
5-20-17". I've typed in the wording exactly as in the book and cropped out the images to save on
page loading time.
HOW TO BUILD A PRIVY
The following are the essential features: There is a closed portion (box) under the seat for the reception (in a
receptable) and safeguarding of the excreta; a room for the occupant; and, proper ventilation.
The average style of privy found in the South. It is known as a surface privy, open in back. Notice how the
soil pollution is being spread, and how flies can carry the filth to the house and thus infect the food.
The receptable consists practically of a box, with a top represented by the seat, with the floor which is a
continuation of the floor of the room, with a front extending from the seat to the floor, with a hinged back which
should close tightly, and with two sides continuous with the sides of the room and provided with wire
screened ventilators, the upper margin of which is just under the level of the seat. The seat should have one or
more holes according to the size of the privy desired, and each hole should have a hinged lid which lifts up
toward the back of the room; there should be a piece of wood nailed across the back , on the inside of the room,
so as to prevent the lids from being lifted suffeciently to fall backward and so as to make them fall forward of
their accord as soon as the person rises. In this box there whould be one or more water-tight tubs, half barrels,
pails, or galvanized cans, corresponding to the number of holes in the seat. This receptacle should be high
enough to reach nearly to the seat, or, better still, so as to fit snugly against the seat, in order to protect the
floor against soiling, and suffciently deep to prevent splashing the person on the seat; it should be held in place
by cleats nailed to the floor in such a way that the tub will always be properly centered. The back should be
kept closed, as shown in the illustration.
A sanitary privy showing firmly closed door, thus preventing flies, animals, etc., from
having access to the fecal material.
The room should be water-tight and should be provided in front with a good, tightly fitting door. The darker this
room can be made the fewer flies will enter. The roof may have a single slant, or a double slant, but while the
double slant is somewhat more sightly, the single slant is less expensive in first cost. The room should be
provided with two or three wire-screened ventilators, as near the roof as possible.
The ventilators are very important additions to the privy, as they permit a free circulation of air and thus not only
reduce the odor but make the outhouse cooler. These ventilators should be copper wire screened in order to
keep out flies and other inscets. There should be at least 4 (better 5) ventilators, arranged as follows: One each
side of the box: one each side the room near the roof; and a fifth ventilator, over the door, in front, is advisable.
Latticework, Flowers and Vines. - At best, the privy is not an attractive additon to the yard. It is
possible, however, to reduce its unattractiveness by surrounding it with a latticework on which are trained vines
or flowers. This plan, which adds but little to the expense, renders the building much less unsightly and much
more private.
Disinfectant. - It is only in comparatively recent years that the privy has been thought worthy of scientific
study, and not unnaturally there is some difference of opinion at present as to the best plan to follow in regard to
disinfectants.
Top Soil. - Some persons prefer to keep a box or a barrel of top soil, sand, or ashes in the room and to
recommend that each time the privy is used the excreta be covered with a shovelful of the dirt. While this has the
advantage of simplicity, it has the disadvantage of favoring carelessness, as people so commonly (infact, as a
rule) fail to cover the excreta; further, in order to have th best results, it is necessary to cover the discharges
very completely; finally, at best, our knowledge as to how long certain germs and spores will live under these
conditions is very unsatisfactory.
Lime. - Some persons prefer to have a box of lime in the room and to cover the excreta with this material.
Against this system there is the objection that the lime is not used with sufficient frequency or liberality to keep
insects away, as is shown by the fact that flies carry the lime to the house and deposit it on the food.
Water and Oil. - A very cheap and simple method is to pour into the tub about 2 or 3 inches of water;
this plan gives the excreta a chance to ferment and liquefy so that the disease germs may be more easily
destroyed. If this plan is followed a cup of oil (kerosene will answer) should be poured on the water in order
to repel insects.
Cresol. - Some persons favor the use of a 5 per cent crude carbolic acid in the tub, but probably the
compound solution of cresol (U.S.P.) will be found equally or more satisfactory if used in a strength of 1 part of
this solution to 19 parts of water.
If a disinfectant is used the family should be warned to keep the reserve supply in a place that is not acessible
to the children, otherwise accidents may result.
Cleaning the Receptacle. - The frequency of cleaning the receptacle depends upon (a) the size of the
tub, (b) the number of persons using the privy, and (c) the weather. In general, it is best to clean it about once
a week in winter and twice a week in summer.
An excellent plan is to have a double set of pails or tubs for each privy. Suppose the outhouse is to be cleaned
every Saturday: Then pail No. 1 is taken out (say January 1), covered, and set aside until the following Saturday;
pail No.2 is placed in the box for use; on January 8 pail No. 1 is emptied and put back in the box for use while
pail No.2 is taken out, covered, and set aside for a week (namely, until January 15); and so on throughout the
year. The object of this plan is to give an extra long time for the germs to be killed by fermentation or by the
action of the disinfectant before the pail is emptied.
Each time that the receptacle is emptied, it is best to sprinkle into it a layer of top soil about a quarter to half an
inch deep before putting it back into the box.
Disposal of the Excreta. - For the present, until certain very thorough investigations are made in regard
to the length of time that the eggs of parasites and the spores of certain other germs may live, it is undoubtedly
best to burn or boil all excreta; to bury all human discharges at least 300 feet away and down hill from any water
supply (as the well, spring, etc.).
Many farmers insist upon using the fresh night soil as fertilizer. In warm climates this is attended with
considerable danger, and if it is so utilized, it should never be used upon any field upon which vegetables are
grown which are eaten uncooked; further, it should be promptly plowed under.
In our present lack of knowledge as to the length of time that various germs (as spores of the ameba which
produce dysentery, various eggs, etc.) may live, the use of fresh, unboiled night soil as a fertilizer is false
economy which may result in loss of human life. This is especially true in warm climates.
Directions for Building a Sanitary Privy. - In order to put the construction of a sanitary privy for the home
within the carpentering abilities of boys, a practical carpenter has been requested to construct models to conform
to the general ideas expressed in this article, and to furnish estimates of the amount of lumber, hardware, and wire
screening required. Drawings of these models have been made during the process of construction in completed
condition. The carpenter was requested to hold constantly in mind two points, namely, economy and simplicity
of construction. It is believed that any 14-year-old schoolboy of average intelligence and mechanical ingenuity
can, by following these plans, build a sanitary privy for his home at an expense for building materials, exclusive
of receptacle, for $5 to $10, according to locality. It is further believed that the plans submitted cover the
essential points to be considered. They can be elaborated to suit the individual taste of persons who prefer a
more elegant and more expensive structure. For instance, the roof can have a double instead of a single slant,
and it can be shingled; the sides, front, and back can be clapboarded or they can be shingled. Instead of one
seat, there may be two, three, four, or five seats, etc., accordng to necessity.
A. Single-Seated Privy for the Home. - Nearly all privies for the home have seats for two persons, but a
single privy can be made more economically.
Framework. - The lumber required for the framework of the outhouse shown is as follows:
A. Two pieces of lumber (scantling) 4 feet long and 6 inches square at ends.
B. One piece of lumber (scantling) 3 feet 10 inches long; 4 inches square at ends.
C. Two pices of lumber (scantling) 3 feet 4 inches long; 4 inches square at ends.
D. Two pieces of lumber (scantling) 7 feet 9 inches long; 2 by 4 inches at ends.
E. Two pieces of lumber (scantling) 6 feet 7 inches long; 2 by 4 inches at ends.
F. Two pieces of lumber (scantling) 6 feet 3 inches long; 2 by 4 inches at ends.
G. Two pieces of lumber (scantling) 5 feet long; 2 by 4 inches at ends.
H. One piece of lumber (scantling) 3 feet 10 inches long; 2 by 4 inches at ends.
I. Two pieces of lumber (scantling) 3 feet 4 inches long: 2 by 4 inches at ends.
J. Two pieces of lumber (scantling) 3 inches long; 2 by 4 inches at ends.
K. Two pieces of lumber (scantling) 4 feet 7 inches long; 6 inches wide by 1 inch
thick. The ends of K should be trimmed after being nailed in place.
L. Two piece of lumber (scantling) 4 feet long, 6 inches wide, and 1 inch thick.
First lay down the sills marked A and join them with the joist marked B; then nail in
position the two joists marked C, with their ends 3 inches from the outer edge of A;
raise the corner posts (D and F), spiking them at bottom to A and C, and joinng them
with L, I, G, and K; raise door posts E, fastening them at J, and then spike I in
position; H is fastened to K.
Sides.- Each side requires four boards (a) 12 inches wide by 1 inch thick
and 8 feet 6 inches long; these are nailed to K, L, and A. The corner boards must be notched at G, allowing
them to pass to bottom of roof; next draw a slant from front to back at G-G, on the outside of the boards, and
saw the fours side boards to correspond with this slant.
Back. - The back requires two boards (b) 12 inches wide by 1 inch thick and 6 feet 11 inches long,
and two boards (c) 12 inches wide by 1 inch thick and 6 feet 5 inches long. The two longest boards (b) are
nailed next to the sides; the shorter boards (c) are sawed in two so that one piece (c1) measures
4 feet 6 inches, the other (c2) 1 foot 11 inches; the longer portion (c1) is nailed in position above the seat; the
shorter portion (c2) is later utilized in making the back door.
Floor. - The floor requires four boards (d) which (when cut to fit) meausre 1 inch thick, 12 inches wide,
and 3 feet 10 inches long.
Front. - The front boards may next be nailed on. The front requires (aside from the door) two boards (e)
whcih (when cut to fit) measure 1 inch thick, 9 inches wide, and 8 feet 5 inches long; these are nailed next to
the sides.
Roof. - The roof may now be finished. This requires five boards (f) measuring (when cut to fit) 1 inch
thick, 12 inches wide, and 6 feet long. They are so placed that they extend 8 inches beyond the front. The
joints (cracks) are to be broken (covered) by laths one-half inch thick, 3 inches broad, and 6 feet long.
Box. - The front of the box requires two boards, 1 inch thick and 3 feet 10 inches long. One of these
(g) may measure 12 inches wide, the other (h) 5 inches wide. These are nailed in place, so that the back of the
boards is 18 inches from the inside of the backboards. The seat of the box requies two boards, 1 inch thick, 3
feet 10 inches long; one of these (i) may measure 12 inches wide, the other (j) 7 inches wide. One must be
jogged (cut out) to fit around the back corner posts (F). An oblong hole, 10 inches long and 7 1/2 inches wide,
is cut in the seat. The edge should be smoothly rounded or beveled. And extra (removable ) seat for children
may be made by cutting a board 1 inch thick, 15 inches wide, and 20 inches long; in this seat a hole is cut,
measuring 7 inches long by 6 inches wide; the front margin of this hole should be about 3 inches from the front
edge of the board; to prevent warping, a cross cleat is nailed on top near or at each end of the board.
A cover (k) to the seat should measure 1 inch thick by 15 inches wide by 20 inches long; it is cleated on top
near the ends, to prevent warping; it is hinged in back to a strip 1 inch thick, 3 inches wide, and 20 inches
long, which is fastened to the seat. Cleats (m) may also be nailed on the seat at the sides of the cover. On
the inside of the backboard, 12 inches above the seat, there should be nailed a block (1), 2 inches thick, 6
inches long, extending forward 3 1/4 inches; this is intended to prevent the cover from falling backward and to
make it to fall down over the hole when the occupant rises.
On the floor of the box (underneath the seat) two or three cleats (n) are nailed in such a position that they will
always center the tub; the position of these cleats depends upon the size of the tub.
Back Door. - In making the back of the privy the two center boards (c) were sawd at teh height of the
bottom of the seat. The small portions (c2) sawed off (23 inches long) are cleated (o) together so as to form a
back door which is hinged above; a bolt or a button is arranged to keep the door closed.
Front Door. - The front door is made by cleating (p) together three boards (q) 1 inch thick, 10 inches
wide, and (when finished) 6 feet 7 inches long; it is best to use three cross cleats (p) (1 inch thick, 6 inches wide,
30 inches long), which are placed on the inside. The door is hung with two hinges (6-inch "strap" hinges will
do), which are placed on the right as one faces the privy, so that the door opens from the left. The door should
close with a coil spring (cost about 10 cents) or with a rope and weight, and may fasten on the inside with a
catch or a cord. Under the door a cross-piece (r) 1 inch thick, 4 inches wide, 30 inches long (when finished )
may be nailed to the joist. Stops (s) may be placed inside the door as illustrated in the cut. These should be
1 inch thick, 3 inches wide, and 6 feet 6 inches long, and should be jogged (cut out) (t) to fit the cross cleats
(p) on the door. Close over the top of the door place a strip (v) 1 inch thick, 2 inches wide, 30 inches long,
nailed to I. A corresponding piece (v) is placed higher up directly under the roof, nailed to G. A strap or door
pull is fastened to the outside of the door.
Ventilators. - There should be five ventilators (w). One is place at each side of the box, directly under
the seat; it measures 6 to 8 inches square. Another (12 inches square) is placed near the top on each side of
the privy. A fifth (30 inches long, 8 1/2 inches wide) is placed over the door, between G and I. The ventilators
are made of 15-mesh copper wire, which is first tacked in place and then protected at the edge with the same
kind of lath that is used on the cracks and joints.
Lath. - Outside cracks (joints) are covered with lath one-half inch thich by 3 inches wide.
Receptacle. - For a receptacle, saw a water-tight barrel to fit snugly under the seat; or purchase a
can or tub, as deep (17 inches) as the distance from the under surface of the seat to the floor. If it is not
possible to obtain a tub, barrel, or can of the desired size, the receptacle used should be elevated from the floor
by blocks or boards so that it fits snugly under the seat. A galvanized can measuring 15 inches deep and
15 inches in diameter can be puchased for about $1, or even less. An empty candy bucket can be purchased
for about 10 cents.
Order for Material. - The carpenter has made out the following order for lumber (pine, No. 1 grade) and
hardware to be used in building a privy such as here illustrated:
1 piece scantling, 6 by 6 inches by 8 feet long, 24 square feet.
1 piece scantling, 4 by 4 inches by 12 feet long, 16 square feet.
5 pieces scantling, 2 by 4 inches by 16 feet long, 54 square feet.
3 pieces board, 1 by 6 inches by 16 feet long, 24 square feet.
2 pieces board, 1 by 9 inches by 9 feet long, 14 square feet.
3 pieces board, 1 by 10 inches by 7 feet long, 18 square feet.
15 pieces board, 1 by 12 inches by 12 feet long, 180 square feet.
12 pieces board, 1/2 by 3 inches by 16 feet long, 48 square feet.
2 pounds of 20-penny spikes.
6 pounds of 10=penny nails.
2 pounds of 6-penny nails.
7 feet screen, 15-mesh, copper, 12 inches wide.
4 hinges, 6-inch "strap," for front and back doors.
2 hinges, 6-inch "T," or 3-inch "butts," for cover
1 coil spring for front door.
According to the carpenter's estimate, these materials will cost from $5 to $10, according to locality.
There is some variation in the size of lumber, as the pieces are not absolutely uniform. The sizes given in the
lumber order represent the standard sizes which should be ordered, but the purchaser need not expect to find
that the pieces delivered correspond with mathematical exactness to the sizes called for. On this account the
pieces must be measured and cut to measure as they are put together.
This ended the chapter on building the privy, and my book then goes on and on for several whole
chapters about flies, sickness, and prevention....
Now for my pithy comments!
First take on this - why is the bad example at the beginning an "average style of
privy in the South"? Did the south have a monopoly on disgusting biffys?
I'm astounded at how redundant the wording is... how many times do they have to tell us about the self
closing lid (which I think is a lovely way to break a kid's arm...), the cost of the project, or the fantastic
rear door? Gosh - if you are going to follow these hard to understand plans, you aren't that stupid!
In 1908 a 14 year old boy could build this on his own???? No more comments on this - I don't need the flaming.
What is scantling????
1908 Household Discoveries
